Instead of counting calories or measuring portions, dieters just have to pay attention to the clock, said Courtney Peterson, a nutrition researcher at the University of Alabama at Birmingham.

“You have this really simple rule: Eat or don’t eat,” Peterson said.

The technique has skyrocketed in popularity in recent years, becoming a leading trending topic on social media.

But does time-restricted eating, a form of intermittent fasting, really help people shed pounds and boost health?

Here’s what you need to know about the practice:

WHAT IS INTERMITTENT FASTING?
Intermittent fasting is a meal strategy where people switch between fasting and eating on a regular schedule, defined as at least 14 hours with no food, Peterson said. That can mean variations such as eating every other day, eating five days a week and then fasting for two days or limiting daily eating to certain hours.

Time-restricted eating, where people condense all of their eating into a daily window of 10 hours or less, is the most popular form of intermittent fasting. Diners will delay breakfast until 10 a.m. or noon and then eat dinner by 6 p.m. or 8 p.m., forgoing food the rest of the time.

HOW IS IT SUPPOSED TO HELP?
The theory behind time-restricted eating is that it supports the circadian rhythm, or the body’s internal clock. Spending more time in a fasting state may boost the body’s processes that govern blood sugar and fat metabolism, for instance, scientists say.

Early studies in mice starting in 2012 seemed to show health benefits from time-restricted eating. Small studies in people with obesity suggested that the practice might help them lose weight and improve other health markers.

IS TIME-RESTRICTED EATING EFFECTIVE FOR WEIGHT LOSS?
Research has shown that people on time-restricted eating plans tend to eat fewer calories, which could explain weight loss.

Results from combined studies suggested that adults with obesity who limited their eating hours without focusing on calories naturally reduced their energy intake by 200 to 550 calories a day, losing 3% to 5% of their baseline body weight.

But a larger study of people observed over a longer period of time showed that the time restrictions alone might not matter.

A 2022 study published in the New England Journal of Medicine tracked 139 people with obesity for a year. Participants either followed a calorie-restricted diet during a certain time window or ate the same number of calories throughout the day. Both groups lost weight — 14 to 18 pounds on average — but there was no significant difference between the strategies.

“Our data right now suggests that time-restricted eating isn’t any better or worse than cutting calories,” Peterson said. Nor does the technique help burn more calories, she added.

Still, Peterson said, the simplicity of time restriction might be easier to maintain than a typical diet.

“Almost no one likes calorie counting,” she said.

IS INTERMITTENT FASTING SAFE?
Early clinical trials with eating windows of six to 10 hours found that time-restricted eating was “generally safe,” researchers reported in the journal Obesity.

But headline-grabbing research presented this year at an American Heart Association scientific session suggested that people following an 8-hour time-restricted diet had a much higher risk of death from cardiovascular disease than those who ate over 12 to 16 hours.

That research hasn’t been published in a peer-reviewed journal, noted Dr. Francisco Lopez-Jimenez, of the Mayo Clinic.

But he said there is reason to be cautious. Longstanding evidence suggests that skipping breakfast may be linked to cardiovascular disease and death. People should check with their health care providers before they try restricted eating, especially if the fasting window lasts until midday.

“It’s a call for pausing before you just recommend a particular diet,” Lopez-Jimenez said.

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Using genes from coffee plants around the world, researchers built a family tree for the world’s most popular type of coffee, known to scientists as Coffea arabica and to coffee lovers simply as “arabica.”

The researchers, hoping to learn more about the plants to better protect them from pests and climate change, found that the species emerged around 600,000 years ago through natural crossbreeding of two other coffee species.

“In other words, prior to any intervention from man,” said Victor Albert, a biologist at the University at Buffalo who co-led the study.

These wild coffee plants originated in Ethiopia but are thought to have been first roasted and brewed primarily in Yemen starting in the 1400s. In the 1600s, Indian monk Baba Budan is fabled to have smuggled seven raw coffee beans back to his homeland from Yemen, laying the foundation for coffee’s global takeover.

Arabica coffee, prized for its smooth and relatively sweet flavor, now makes up 60% – 70% of the global coffee market and is brewed by brands such as Starbucks, Tim Horton’s and Dunkin’. The rest is robusta, a stronger and more bitter coffee made from one of arabica’s parents, Coffea canephora.

To piece together arabica coffee’s past, researchers studied genomes of C. canephora, another parent called Coffea eugenioides, and more than 30 different arabica plants, including a sample from the 1700s — courtesy of the Natural History Museum in London — that Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus used to name the plant.

The study was published Monday in the journal Nature Genetics. Researchers from Nestlé, which owns several coffee brands, contributed to the study.

The arabica plant’s population fluctuated over thousands of years before humans began cultivating it, flourishing during warm, wet periods and suffering through dry ones. These lean times created so-called population bottlenecks, when only a small number of genetically similar plants survived.

Today, that renders arabica coffee plants more vulnerable to diseases like coffee leaf rust, which cause billions of dollars in losses every year. The researchers explored the makeup of one arabica variety that is resistant to coffee leaf rust, highlighting sections of its genetic code that could help protect the plant.

The study clarifies how arabica came to be and spotlights clues that could help safeguard the crop, said Fabian Echeverria, an adviser for the Center for Coffee Research and Education at Texas A&M University who was not involved with the research.

Exploring arabica’s past and present could yield insight into keeping coffee plants healthy – and coffee cups full – for future early mornings.

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In this recipe from our book “Tuesday Nights Mediterranean,” which features weeknight-friendly meals from the region, we combine roasted portobello mushrooms with fresh goat cheese, toasted walnuts and a combination of bitter radicchio and frisée, adding a touch of sweetness with a honeyed red wine vinaigrette.

To begin, we coat sliced mushrooms with olive oil seasoned with garlic, thyme, salt and pepper to highlight their savory character, then roast until the moisture they release evaporates and the slices begin to brown. The greens and cheese can be prepared during the 10 minutes the mushrooms are in the oven, and the vinaigrette is made as they cool.

We like the texture and color of frisée and radicchio, but if you prefer leafier greens, use watercress or arugula — which tend to be peppery instead of bitter. To make the salad more filling, serve with sliced baguette and garnish individual portions with a poached egg.

FRISÉE AND MUSHROOM SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE AND WALNUTS

Start to finish: 35 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated

½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 pound portobello mushrooms, stemmed and sliced ½ inch thick

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon whole-grain Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon honey

½ cup walnuts, toasted, ¼ cup chopped and reserved separately

1 head frisée (about 7 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces (about 7 cups)

1 small head radicchio (about 6 ounces), thinly sliced (about 2½ cups)

4 ounces fresh goat cheese (chèvre), crumbled

Heat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the middle position. In a large bowl, whisk together 3 tablespoons of oil, the garlic, thyme and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Add the mushrooms and toss to coat. Distribute in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet; reserve the bowl. Roast the mushrooms until the moisture they release has evaporated and the slices begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool while you prepare the dressing and toss the greens.

In the reserved bowl, whisk together the remaining 4 tablespoons oil, the vinegar, mustard, honey, chopped walnuts and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Add the frisée and radicchio, then toss to combine.

Mound the greens on a serving platter and arrange the mushrooms on top. Scatter the goat cheese over the salad and sprinkle with the remaining walnuts.

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EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap

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Bowls and bowls of salsa.

And while you can always pop open a jar, homemade salsa is extremely simple to make. The only skill it requires is a willingness to chop, mince, and dice.

Everyone loves a classic tomato-based salsa, but if you want to shake things up a bit, there’s no easier way to liven up your spread than to play with different fruit-based salsas.

If you take a stroll down the salsa aisle in a supermarket, you’ll see firsthand how deep America’s love affair with salsa runs. And while there are dozens of tomato-based choices, you can also find more exotic offerings, many of them fruit-forward. And those can become an inspiration for our homemade versions.

Popular salsa variations include peach, mango, pineapple, black bean and corn, avocado, and green tomatillo.

What game-day foods does salsa go with? What DOESN’T salsa go with it? Clearly, it works well with chips (potato, tortilla, pita, and so on). Definitely nachos, tacos, burritos, quesadillas. Ditto an assortment of raw veggies, from carrots to cucumber slices to planks of jicama. A scoop of salsa on a bowl of chili is a terrific contrasting topper. Chicken wings benefit from a dunk in bright spicy salsa. And a spoonful is excellent atop a burger or slider.

So, let’s wow our friends and make our own. Here are three quick and easy fruit salsas that will elevate game day and still fit right in.

PINEAPPLE-MINT-JALAPENO SALSA

This so, so pretty and colorful salsa is truly refreshing, even with the kick from the jalapenos (and of course, the amount of jalapeño can be adjusted as desired). The sweetness of the pineapple is a bright surprising base. If you use two different-colored bell peppers, the salsa gets that much more colorful, but if you use just one pepper of any color that’s absolutely fine, too. Try this with teriyaki beef skewers or pulled pork sandwiches.

In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups ¼-inch diced pineapple, ½ cup diced bell pepper (any color or mix of colors), 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped mint, 1 teaspoon minced jalapeno (or more to taste), 1 tablespoon lime juice and salt to taste.

TROPICAL FRUIT SALSA

Besides the usual game-day menu suspects, this is great with fish (think fish tacos) and on top of grilled chicken.

In a medium bowl, combine 1/2 cup finely diced pineapple, ½ cup finely diced mango, ½ cup finely diced papaya (or additional mango), ½ cup finely diced red bell pepper, ½ cup finely diced onion, 1 kiwi peeled and finely diced, 1 teaspoon minced jalapeno, 2 teaspoons minced cilantro, the juice of 1 lime, ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes or to taste, pinch cayenne pepper, and salt to taste.

SPICY PEAR SALSA

Also, remember this next time you make a roasted pork loin or cook a turkey breast. The pomegranate seeds are optional, but they sure do offer a lot of visual appeals, not to mention crunchy pops of sweet-tart flavor. You can use whatever pears you have around, making sure they are ripe but still firm so they hold their shape when diced. Try Bosc, Anjou, or Bartlett.

In a medium bowl, combine 2 diced ripe-but-firm pears, a minced ½ red onion, a couple of tablespoons pomegranate seeds, 1 teaspoon minced jalapeno, 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon orange juice, and salt and pepper to taste.

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Switching up salsas for the Super Bowl: 3 recipes with fruit
 

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The front lounge area is festooned with cherry blossom trees up to the ceiling.

A huge atrium opens up in the center flooding the center bar with light where two full walls of wildly colorful murals by Miami’s international art sensation sleepy eyes Ahol, take on a hypnotic effect. The world of art and high cuisine is always watching.

The restaurant Chotto Matte is a welcoming, vibrant, and contemporary environment. The food is a feast of popular Peruvian ingredients — tropical fish, quinoa, aji Amarillo peppers—molded by Japanese techniques. Multiple chefs at the restaurant prepare the ceviche in a particular style that dates back to the turn of the century.

The restaurant embraces natural colors and mouth-watering taste sensations, a delicious combination of both Japanese and Peruvian ingredients and cooking style, as Japanese sushi and sashimi, and Peruvian ceviche are central to their gastronomy menu.

At the bar, La Catrina Rosa cocktail made with Código 1530 Rosa Tequila, Hierba Luisa (lemon verbena leaves), raspberry, chili, and lime is something to lust after once you try it. Yummy enough but the real kicker is in the presentation. It comes in a glass of crushed ice with a frozen black skull (made of edible black currant liquor) on top. Then the mixologist poured a raspberry-colored drink on top partially melting the little skull and turning the drink a bloodier color. Vile and delicious!

Other choices include Daisy in Black with Código 1530 Blanco Tequila, Velvet Falernum, Yellow Chartreuse Grand Marnier, kumquat, and lime, or the Midnight in Lima with blackberry smoke.

The food menu is expansive, ranging from appetizers, sashimi, sushi, robata grills, and tempura. Available are sharing menus set at different pricing tiers and include a complete lineup of small plates curated into various selections. There are vegan options too.

The first dish I tried was Shishito Peppers, steamed to silky perfection and tossed with a gingery dressing. Next, Spicy Tuna Crispy Rice, with the fish sitting atop a fried rice square—an unusual presentation.

The best of the night was the Yellowtail “Nikkei sashimi” with lots of flavorful tangy toppings that made this fish dish deluxe a real winner. The BBQ broccoli and cauliflower was a veggie delight, with small florets still a bit crunchy and smokey with sauce.

A Black Cod Aji Miso was served in one large piece but a friendly waiter saved us by expertly separating it into bite-sized pieces, as meals are served with only chopsticks.
Sliced beef over fried rice rich with peas and other veggies was rich and filling, but we still had room for Chef’s Choice Dessert, a chocolate shell ball in a large black dish. The waiter came over with a warm caramel sauce and drizzled it on top. Within seconds the shell melted on top like a volcano, exposing the rich vanilla bean ice cream inside.

An evening at Chotto-Matte will give you an experience you will want to repeat. The mix of a contemporary urban environment, a spectacle, great cuisine, and Miami vibes make this restaurant a very special concept. It is all about quality, ingredients, and flavors.

The name Chotto Matte means “hold on a second” and the diverse, darkly sophisticated atmosphere of the place embodies that, as you will want to hold on to the full experience here.

If you want to visit, Chotto Matte is at 1664 Lenox Ave, Miami Beach. Online at: chotto-matte.com/miami 

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Spectacular eats at Japanese-Peruvian restaurant, Chotto Matte

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Sit at any of the roof’s edge tables and take in the brilliant orange and pink sunset. A drink arrives in an enormous carved tusk on a stand, topped with purple orchids. Another cocktail comes in a glass dish shaped like a bee, covered with hinged silver wings.

Salvaje, a restaurant concept that has amassed an international reputation, occupies this 170-seat space at Hyde’s rooftop where the lush intrigue of the Amazon jungle, the passion and spice of Spain, and the mysticism of Japan coalesce come to life. The brand was conceptualized by Executive Chef Fermín Azkue, whose impressive gastronomic career throughout Europe and collaboration with traditional Japanese chefs inspired the creativity behind the concept.

The menu—a unique gastronomic experience—is a Japanese and Spanish fusion that features some of the most imaginative presentations of cocktails and food I’ve ever seen.

Anxious to try a bit of a lot, I started with some sushi—the Super Dynamite came warm, a generous roll of king crab with truffle butter for dipping. This takes sushi to a new level, savory and rich. Another roll with spicy salmon, avocado, and passion fruit, and eel sauce was a standout, layering flavors with an expert touch.

Lobster dumplings came in unexpectedly large, nestled together in rich lobster bisque – is that sherry and saffron? –  with crispy wontons on top.

The Steak Salvaje, a 40-day aged sirloin with a Yuzu hollandaise and whole seasonal mushrooms is an entree I highly recommend. It comes out grilled, sliced, and dressed with herbs. The medium-rare steak came as ordered, enhanced by a tangy creamy yuzu sauce. The shrooms added an earthy flavor. Truly one of the best steaks I’ve ever had.

Photo Gallery: some of the food and cocktails at Salvaje.

A side dish of grilled avocados sliced in the outer shell, pit removed, and filled with a truffle butter vinaigrette complemented the creamy hot fruit and it was a delish to try.

So much sweet effort goes into the plating at Salvaje, providing consistent service and expectations of the unexpected, something that I’ve learned is standard throughout their eight locations spanning the globe — Miami, Barcelona, Ibiza, Marbella, Madrid, Colombia. Imported ingredients such as octopus from Galicia, Alaskan King salmon, Japanese tuna, and Wagyu beef are just a few of the offerings to not miss at this restaurant.

Salvaje Miami is a well-accomplished fusion of Spanish, LatAm, and Asia-Pacific flavors and the party-like rooftop atmosphere at Hyde is an outstanding compliment. A DJ was playing some groove-inducing tunes as we savored the sunset and the last bites of a Yuzu pie that was equally wonderful with refreshing yuzu sorbet surrounded by white cake and pistachio crumbles— Yuzu seems to be the pet fruit here, adding a saucy touch to every dish. A small shiver of edible gold leaf topped the whole thing off, a blissful delight.

Get here early for ‘Sunset Sessions’ with views of the sun-bathed cityscape and specially priced menu items daily from 4 – 6 PM. You can rest assured their presentations and flavors will transport you to an enchanting world, immersed in the flavors, movement, and rhythms of Salsa!

If you travel for food, lively and chic Salvaje Miami lives up to its name, translating from Spanish to the word “wild.” The ambiance is immediately captivating. At its center, impressive views. The menu, exceedingly crafted with many scrumptious options.

All this quality and atmosphere doesn’t come cheap, but for world-class cuisine and priceless views, aren’t you worth it?

If you visit, Salvaje Miami is at 101 NE 34th St, Miami, FL 33137. Online at www.miami.salvaje.world

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Salvaje Restaurant: Exotic, eclectic dining in the heart of mid-town Miami

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For the tomato sauce in the Pizza Margherita

Makes enough for 4 pizzas:

— 1 x 14 ounce (400 grams) can of San Marzano (or any good-quality Italian) tomatoes

— a good pinch of sea salt

Method:

In a large bowl, crush the tomatoes by hand. (This is the old-school way they used to do it in Naples, and for good reason. If you put the tomatoes in a food processor you end up with a depressingly smooth sauce that lacks texture.) Once you’ve crushed the hell out of your tomatoes, add a pinch of salt to taste and that’s it! Pure, unadulterated tomato goodness.

For the pizza

Makes 1 pizza

— 1 ball of Neapolitan pizza dough (see below)

— 3 ounces (80 grams) tomato sauce

— 4–5 fresh basil leaves

— Parmesan, for grating

— 1 tablespoon olive oil

— 3 ounces (80 grams) fior di latte mozzarella, torn or sliced

Method:

1. Preheat the grill (broiler) to its absolute highest setting, and place a large, ovenproof frying pan (skillet) over high heat and let it get screaming hot.

2. Meanwhile, flatten and stretch the dough ball to make a 10-inch pizza base.

3. Lay the pizza base flat in the hot, dry frying pan, then, using a small ladle (or a large spoon), spoon the tomato sauce onto the middle of the pizza. Using the back of the ladle, make concentric circles to spread the sauce, beginning in the middle and finishing 1ˆin from the edge.

4. Next, sprinkle over the basil (it will burn if put on last). Grate over a little Parmesan and drizzle with the olive oil.

5. Once the base of the pizza has browned, about 1–2 minutes, add your mozzarella, then place the frying pan under the grill on the highest shelf.

6. Once the crust has taken on some color, about 1–2 minutes, the pizza is ready!

Making Neapolitan Pizza Dough:

With the knowledge of each ingredient and the important roles they play, we can now make Neapolitan pizza dough.

Tip: Weigh out all your ingredients before you start.

Ingredients:

— 35 ounces (1000 grams) ‘00’ flour (Caputo ‘blue’ is recommend)

— 2/3 tablespoon (2 grams) fresh yeast

— 21 fluid ounces (620 milliliters) tepid water

— 1 ounce (30 grams) fine sea salt

Method

1. Make a mountain of flour in the middle of the table. Using your fist, make a deep well in the middle of the flour, exposing the surface of the table (turning your mountain into a moon crater).

2. Crumble the yeast into the tepid water. Use your good hand to mash up the yeast in the water until it has dissolved. (Keep the other hand dry for taking Instagram photos to show off to your friends.) Fill your crater of flour with a third of the yeast/water mix. Using your fingertips, start making very small circular motions to combine the flour and water.

3. Start dragging in some more flour to the mix, by ‘undercutting’ the walls of the crater with your fingertips. As you do this the mixture in the middle will become thicker. Once it reaches the consistency of porridge you need to add a bit more water. Don’t let it get too thick; if it starts to form a dough too soon it becomes difficult to incorporate the rest of the water. Keep dragging in a little flour to thicken the mix, then pouring a little bit more water in to loosen it, until you have all the water used up.

4. Sprinkle the sea salt over the mixture while it’s still very wet to ensure it dissolves and disperses evenly throughout the dough. Now use both hands to push the remaining flour from the outside into the middle. Fold and press the mix until all the flour is absorbed and the dough comes together. If you have a dough scraper it really helps get everything off the table, but you can improvise with a paint scraper, spatula, or knife.

5. Work the gluten by kneading the dough. Use the heel of your hand to stretch out the dough and roll it back up, while the other hand acts like an anchor. You’ll be able to see the strands of gluten stretching, breaking, being put back together, and becoming stronger. Continue this for about 8 minutes until the dough becomes smooth and glossy. It should also feel tighter and elastic.

6. Let the dough have a 10-minute rest to relax the gluten. Cover the dough with a damp cloth or some clingfilm (plastic wrap) to keep the air from drying it out. Then divide your bulk of dough into individual portions. We recommend 230g (8oz) dough balls for 10-inch pizzas. Ensure your dough balls are neatly shaped – pinched at the bottom and tight on the top – then place them in a tray or container 3cm (1in) apart. Cover with a tight lid or clingfilm (plastic wrap).

7. Now you can relax. The yeast will take over from here. Leave the dough at room temperature for approximately 6 hours until it expands to almost double its size, then store in the fridge overnight. The next day, remove the dough from the fridge for 1–2 hours and bring it back to room temperature before baking your pizzas.

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Recipe excerpted with permission from “Pizza” by Thom Elliot and James Elliot, published by Quadrille in November 2020.

Make a pizza Margherita like an Italian. Here’s how.

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It was shortly after I’d tried regular coffee that I was introduced to Cuban coffee. I was in love with this small yet strong coffee. Even more so, with the fact that Cubans encouraged the drinking of it in the afternoon, particularly after lunch when you started to feel a little tipsy from your food coma and were in need of a big boost.

When I worked in advertising, I’d often have to sit with one of our video editors to help bring my scripts to life and my favorite to be paired with was a big-hearted Cuban guy who loved showing me photos of his wife and kids as well as taking many breaks for cafecito. Sitting with someone for 13 hours a day would have been very dull had it not been for these much-needed breaks.

Have you never had it before? If you’re a fan of coffee you are most definitely missing out. Cuban coffee is made with very rich and deep espresso. It’s mixed with sugar as it is brewing and once finished, has a light sugary layer on top. When serving it, it is essential to not only pour a shot of the dark espresso portion into a small cup but to also scoop some of the light layer of sugar on top. The result is a sweet punch of hot, strong coffee that will definitely keep you from dozing at your desk later.

Cubans are known for their exceptional dancing skills, their kitchen prowess, and their ability to properly make Cuban coffee. Although my friend Jorge always tells me Cubans are also known for their arguing, I certainly could never argue with any Cuban I’ve ever met about their cafecitos being one of the most magical beverages on our planet.

Morning, noon, and night, Cuban coffee is big business in the bustling cafes down in Miami where the Cuban population peeks. Coffee lovers all the world over happily embrace the trend that Cubans have laid down of consuming a satisfying shot of colada after a meal. Cubans do have an energy that is enviable and I have to wonder if it somehow ties into their big-tasting coffee potion that comes in that small cup.

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Tequila is the main alcohol in all Margaritas but some people like to use frozen strawberries and limeade concentrate to conceal the taste of the tequila. One of the country’s foremost cocktail historians, David Wondrich says the Margarita is a version of the Daisy cocktail (in Spanish: Margarita) and that margaritas often have a higher liquor ratio so they can be a dangerous cocktail if you’re drinking without eating.

These are some facts or myths told on days like National Margarita Day. But the real deal is margaritas are cocktails with flowery finesse.

Barcello restaurant, located at 11603 US Highway 1 in North Palm Beach is experimenting with new ingredients and flavor combinations to bring you an even better agave cocktail.

Mixologist Micah Hinde has created Hibiscus Margarita with Black Sea Salt, a cocktail deep red in color with floral notes and a subtle bite of ginger. A squeeze of fresh lime helps to brighten all the flavors.

For this rendition of the famous magic combo of sweet, sour and tequila dumped into a salt-rimmed glass, Hinde uses Cimarron Blanco Tequila, broVo Orange Curacao, Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur, fresh lime juice, agave, and salts the rim of the glass with Himalayan Black Salt creating a bold flavor.

This cocktail is a true game-changer and a fun twist on the traditional Margarita.

And the good thing is the cocktail is available every day from their signature cocktail list.

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Taking over the former Vic and Angelo’s large 5,000 sq. foot corner space at PGA Commons, Scusi Trattoria has a warm and inviting vibe. Dining there on a recent cool weekday evening with two very picky friends, Lori and Joe from the Hamptons, we were welcomed by the large wraparound bar outside that was filled with people enticed by the glowing tall gas heaters that stood like a small forest. Inside, the bustling long open kitchen and two pizza ovens accented by Mediterranean blue-glazed tiles. The décor has nice natural materials of padded wood banquets, plush white and blue striped cushions, antique mirrors, while the walls showcase ceramic plates. A soft light baths the place.

It felt very fresh and contemporary European; I was half expecting to see the cliffs of Capri outside, waves lapping at the shore. Despite the large size of the restaurant, it is cleanly divided into several intimate dining spaces both inside and out.

We chose a banquet to sit at and our attentive waiter Gabriel immediately brought over warm house-baked bread and a round of wine drinks followed. Perusing the menu of traditional entrees, pastas, pizzas, and small plates to share we ordered up the Frito Misto – a generous serving of crispy seafood with shrimp, calamari, and grouper served with a luscious lemon chili aioli. The waiter suggested the Zucchini salad, a real winner consisting of spiraled zucchini tossed with pecorino cheese, lemon, mint, basil, and the surprise crunch of toasted almonds. A very delicious innovative dish.

For the entree, I decided on the Spiced Swordfish Spiedini Alla Sicilian served cut into chunks on a skewer on a bed of cherry tomatoes, currants, capers, pine nuts, and a creamy rosemary-polenta. I’d never had swordfish served this way and it was delicious – the fish firm and well done inside with a spicy, lemony coating. Scooping it up with the polenta and olives and nuts made for a seriously satisfying fresh take on Italian ingredients.

Lori ordered the Wood Baked Branzino Al Limone stuffed with spinach and mushrooms. They mercifully cut the head off but left the tail. Served nestled in a pan of lemony butter sauce, the fish was moist and flaky; the stuffing rich and flavorful. Lori declared it the “best branzino I’ve ever had”. We all tasted it and agreed it was an unusually successful fish dish.

Joe ordered the Bucatini Alle Vongole with white wine, garlic and clams. The pasta is like a mini lasagna noodle, long but thin with ruffled edges. The clams were small and tasty, the generous sauce flecked with oregano and plenty left for sopping up the sauce with bread.

Something else happened at dinner that I haven’t experienced much, people at the tables were reaching out and striking up conversations with the people next to them. We experienced it on both sides of us; starting by commenting on the food then expanding to get to know themselves better. The couple to our right got so chatty we exchanged business cards and they even bought us a round of drinks! Perhaps the newness of the restaurant and the holiday lights and good cheer mood was infectious.

Leaving room for dessert, the chocolate and pistachio gelato and something they call the Scusitiramisu—a variation of tiramisu with bananas in the creamy vanilla pudding and generous shaved chocolate on top.

The menu includes very delectable items like the wood-fired pizzas with mushroom and truffle, fennel sausage, egg, and mushroom, or clam and guanciale. The veal and pork ricotta meatballs, octopus with mashed potatoes and Bigeye tuna Crudo also sound like winners.

All this deliciousness is due to the global experience of Chef Tourondel who has opened more than 40 restaurants around the globe, from London to Hong Kong to San Juan. A native of France, Chef Tourondel studied at Saint Vincent Ecole de Cuisine in Montlucon, France, he was chef to the Admiral in the French Navy. Travels to London led to stints at the famed Gentleman’s Club, Boodle’s, then to Restaurant Beau Geste in Manhattan; Jacques Maximin at Restaurant Ledoyen in France; and Chef de Partie at Restaurant Mercury at the Hotel InterContinental in Moscow and Caesar’s Palace Hotel & Casino.

In the US he opened BLT Steak, BLT Fish, BLT Prime, BLT Burger, BLT Market, LT Burger in the Harbor, LT Burger in Bryant Park, LT Signature, and most recently Arlington Club. Currently, he is also the Executive Chef at Brasserie Ruhlmann in Rockefeller Center in Manhattan. In October 2007, Bon Appétit magazine named Tourondel Restaurateur of the Year. Tourondel has published three cookbooks, Go Fish: Fresh Ideas for American Seafood; Bistro Laurent Tourondel: New American Bistro Cooking; which earned him a 2008 James Beard Foundation Award nomination and Fresh from the Market: Seasonal Cooking with Laurent Tourondel.

“I hope that every guest that comes to dine at Scusi goes home satisfied with a taste of a time when life was simple and delicious,” says Chef Tourondel. “It’s the rustic wood-fired cooking I enjoyed growing up.”

Every dish felt truly inspired, the service was wonderfully attentive, the atmosphere warm and comfortable. This is an extremely elevated dining experience, and a very welcome addition to the North Palm Beach County scene.

Scusi features a specially-curated wine list of primarily European wines, domestic and imported beers, and original craft cocktails, including a rosé snowcone. A happy hour offered Monday through Friday from 5 pm to 7 pm includes specialty-priced drinks and half-priced pizzas.

If you visit, Scusi Trattoria is located at 4520 PGA Blvd, Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33418. (561) 429-6938. scusirestaurants.com

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